How much my trip to Chile really cost me

I just got back from a 2 ½ week trip to Chile and I thought it might be helpful to actually break down what the true costs of an epic trip like this are.

I flew to Santiago, stayed overnight, then onwards to Patagonia and Torres del Paine national park.  After a week there I flew back to Santiago for a weekend and then to Rapa Nui (Easter Island) for 5 days.  Finally, back to Santiago for a day and then home.

Flights

My flight from Boston to Santiago was in Business Class on Copa Airlines (since I turned 60 I decided that any flights over 4 hours need to be in Business – if that means I fly less but in better health, so be it.)

Cost: 160,000 miles and $51.01 in fees

I flew from Santiago to Punta Arenas on LATAM in their domestic version of business which is like short haul European flights – middle seat is open, a little more legroom, better service and 2 bags included.

Cost: $273.20 including taxes and fees (probably could have got it cheaper using a trick I learned later). Earned 3400 Delta miles plus 340 MQD

Santiago to Rapa Nui is a 5 1/2 hour flight across the Pacific to the most remote commercial airport in the world (many times more remote than any of the Arctic or Antarctic airstrips). I flew in Business for half the “normal” cost by booking my flight on the .cl site (see my earlier blog post for details)

Cost:    $772.94 including taxes and fees. Earned 9300 Delta miles plus 700 MQD.  This was less than half what I would have paid for the same ticket on the LATAM US site.  Basically I got Premium business class for less than the US cost of economy.

Lodging

First night at the Holiday Inn (recommended) at Santiago airport was done on points – 32,000 IHG points

Plaza Hotel (recommended with caveats) in Punta Arenas cost $90 USD per night for 2 nights

Hotel Martin Gusinde in Puerto Natales (highly recommended) cost $83.70 USD per night for 3 nights

Plaza Hotel (again) – $90 USD

AC Hotel Santiago at Costanera Center (also highly recommended) – was also on points – 66,000 Bonvoy points

Tupa Hotel in Hanga Roa (also recommended with caveats) – $77 USD per night for 4 nights ($308 total)

Holiday Inn at SCL – $304.30 for 2 nights including taxes – earned 5651 points

I arrived late at BOS from SCL and didn’t feel like it was safe to drive home after being up for 20+ hours.  I stayed at the Hilton at Boston airport using points – 75,000 HH points.

Food

Breakfast was included everywhere I stayed except the AC hotel where I paid $15 for a fantastic breakfast buffet on two of the three days.  I bought breakfast at SCL airport twice for ~$10 each

I tend not to eat lunch when I am travelling like this and spent $25-30 per night on dinner including drinks and tips – even Rapa Nui was reasonably affordable.  Coffee and bottled water and snacks probably added another $50-60 total for the trip.

My most expensive meal of the trip was meeting up with a friend in Santiago and we spent $60 each. Overall, though, you could spend a lot more, but you could also spend less.  I wasn’t looking to save money on food or drinks.

Total for 18 days – $515 USD or $28.61 per day

Car Rental

Rather than pay for parking in Boston for almost 3 weeks – which would have cost over $520 in economy parking or $820 in central parking, I rented a car from Enterprise one-way to the airport and the same on the way back.  

Cost: MYS-BOS $4.30 plus 1750 Enterprise points

                  BOS-MYS $27.31 plus 1750 Enterprise Points

I rented a 4×4 in Patagonia from a local provider (ASV – recommended with caveats).  This was a big expense but added tremendously to the trip.  I drove from Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine, through the park and explored all around Natales and then south to the very end of Ruta 9 in the Magellanes.

Cost: $508 for 5 days including all insurance.  I paid an $800 deposit when I picked up the car and was refunded that in full when I returned it at the airport.

Gas – I paid $26 total to fill up both the Enterprise cars and I paid $117 for diesel for the Hilux.

Tours, National Park Fees, etc.

I paid online for national park entry for both TdP and Rapa Nui.  Milodon cave was also an additional charge.  As it turned out, the CONAF rangers were on strike so I could have gone into TdP and Milodon cave for free – but I was happy to have contributed to the upkeep.

Torres del Paine entry fee for foreigners – $34.41

Milodon Cave entry fee for foreigners – $12.11

Rapa Nui National Park entry fee for foreigners – $80 USD

I also paid 12000 CLP entry fee for the Museum of Pre-Columbian art in Santiago

10,000CLP for the NAO Victoria ship museum in Punta Arenas, and 15,000 CLP for the Magellan Straits park (https://parquedelestrecho.cl)

I paid 50,000 CLP for a very good one day tour of Rapa Nui sites and 42,240 for an equally good half day tour to cover the other areas I hadn’t seen.  I’d planned on renting a car in Rapa Nui, but after doing these tours didn’t feel it would add much.  I’m not really an organized tour kind of person, but it is required that you use a local guide to visit the national park sites on the island, and I learned a huge amount from the excellent guides on both.

Total: $263.52 USD

Anything else?

I paid $21 for an Uber from Punta Arenas airport to the hotel (including tip)

I paid $22 for an Uber from SCL airport to the AC hotel

I paid $40 for a car ride to the airport from the AC hotel (paid more because it was rush hour and torrential rain)

I bought a long sleeve T shirt on Rapa Nui for 23000 CLP and bought and mailed postcards to family and friends for a total of $18.  I bought a map of Torres del Paine national park and another of the roads in Magellanes (because there’s no cell signal outside towns) for a total of 20,000 CLP.

I also paid $50 for T-Mobile data and roaming for up to 3o days and up to 15GB of usage – I don’t think I came anywhere near 15GB of usage and coverage was very spotty in both Patagonia and Rapa Nui.

For the first time ever – and now I’m retired I think more about this – I bought evacuation and medical insurance.  I paid $72 for $1M USD evacuation costs and $500K emergency medical.  Fortunately I didn’t need to use it.

Total extras: $266.60

Total for 18 days in Patagonia, Santiago, and Rapa Nui plus all travel between home and destination was $3,958.28.  Using miles and points probably saved me another $4-5,000 as the flight alone to SCL from BOS is over $3000.  I think that’s good value for a phenomenal trip to multiple remote areas of the earth.

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Ushuaia, Argentina

A lot of money passes through Ushuaia – this is where the majority of Antarctic cruises leave from – but not much of that cash seems to stay here. The airport is nice, and there are a couple of expensive hotels, but overall this really does feel like the edge of the earth – the last place in South America (if you don’t count Puerto Williams which can only be reached by air or water and is really only there to claim territorial rights).

All those people spending $10,000 at a minimum to go and see penguins are moping around in their cruiseline branded parkas and may buy a couple of souvenirs; but most of Ushuaia has a hardscrabble frontier feel like Alaska or rural Australia. I can only imagine how hard the life of the poorer inhabitants must be now that Argentina is run by a guy who missed all the lessons of Thatcher and Reagan’s embrace of Austrian economics.

Despite my British passport, everyone was very pleasant to me on my short trip. This was before the Top Gear guys got run out of town under a hail of rocks, but maybe being polite and quiet and trying to order in Spanish helped. Or maybe the locals just didn’t care for rich guys wrecking sports cars on their roads and filming it for entertainment.

I was super broke on this trip – I had no reason to be traveling anywhere, but I had airline miles and hotel points and my credit cards weren’t quite maxed out. I did manage to lose my debit card three days before I left and had to ask my friend Billy to get me $500 in cash to tide me over which was stressful. Vegetarian food is always a challenge in Argentina, and doubly so here. I think I ate pizza most nights, but I survived.

Nonetheless, highly recommended if you like going to the ends of the earth. I’m going to Punta Arenas later this year, so it will be interesting to compare. Major plus point for Ushuaia, there are lots of large dogs that live in or close to various stores, restaurants, and hotels.

“Son muy buenos perros, Bront”

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Tokyo

I arrive in Tokyo after a long Transpacific flight in coach. I’m avoiding Thanksgiving in the US (a recurring theme, as will emerge in time). I’ve been to Tokyo before so I feel like a pro buying my train ticket in the terminal in Narita and then navigating the enormous Shinjuku station and making it to the Hilton in one piece. Flights and hotel are on points as I’m broke and living way beyond my means.

I turn on the TV in the room and see this – meeting all my expectations for weirdness in Japan. Or maybe there’s a perfectly good explanation that I am missing.

I love Tokyo – the juxtaposition between old and new, super future and enduring past, craft and commerce. I like that Japan (in common with South Korea) mostly embraces its own non-western cultural superiority. Yes there are western clothes and music and English language, but underlying both is no desire to *be* European or American. They do things their own way.

I always take pictures of the Izakayas under the tracks – and maybe on my next trip I’ll have the courage to go into one and try to figure out vegetarian food.

I’m only there for a few days on this trip – but I walk a lot. I always underestimate how big Tokyo actually is. I feel like I have a good handle on how far it is between areas in London, New York, Buenos Aires, or Sydney and whether I can walk or need to take the train or a cab. But Tokyo always catches me out as I grossly underestimate how far it is from Shibuya to Roppongi or Akasaka. But in the meantime I get lost in the back streets of various neighborhoods and see things like this hand carved door to a small house.

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Iqaluit, NU

I first traveled to Iqaluit in 1986; we stopped on route to Resolute and used the original airport (which was then turned into the cargo facility. I returned in 1988 – before I had even started at INSTAAR in Boulder and by then we were at the “new” yellow dome terminal. Iqaluit was my home away from home from 1988- 92 and I even had a PO Box and a bank account at Bank of Montreal (I wonder what happened to that?).

I returned in 1995 and came home with a dog (Akla) who proved to be a great, feral, bundle of fun. He lived to be almost 20 years old, proof that original canine bloodlines are often the strongest.

Stop sign in Iqaluit with text in English, French, and Inuktitut

I returned to Iqaluit in 2023 before starting a disastrous job with unscrupulous and dishonest government contractors. For the first time I stayed at the Frobisher Inn, never having been able to afford it in the past. It was decent although 4X the price you would pay for a similar property in the South.

Lots had changed and yet the feel was the same. The town itself is bigger but I soon got oriented. Northmart is still there, in my head it will always be the Bay. The Snack has strangely survived but I didn’t go this time, thus missing my chance to see a recurrence of two women wrestle fighting on the floor over some disagreement. The cold still freezes your nose hairs and makes your cheekbones ache. There’s a slight smell of jet fuel and two stroke exhaust. It gets dark at 230-3pm in late November so you’d better make the most of the daylight. There’s an excellent new coffee shop / cafe called Black Heart Cafe just north of the new RCMP building – highly recommended. And there’s now a third “new” terminal at the airport. Will I live long enough to see a fourth?

Looking across the harbor in Iqaluit and further across Frobisher Bay to Meta Incognita Peninsula as the sun gets low.
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Some travel tips to save money on flights in Chile

In my new Sabbatical / Practice Retirement state, I’ve been able to schedule some travel for next year. Trying to use miles and points as much as I can.

Chile has been on my list of destinations for quite a while – after traveling to Ushuaia in Argentina ten or more years ago, I’ve been wanting to go to Punta Arenas on the Chilean side and compare. Unfortunately, while I was dithering United dropped their direct flight from the US to Santiago as did Air Canada. That left my only miles choice as Copa with a change of planes in Panama. Stay tuned for reviews of that – I will say that the mile redemption for the trip was 50% of what it would have been on UA or AC, so that’s a plus.

I’m going to be in Santiago, Punta Arenas, Puerto Natales, and Rapa Nui on my trip. LATAM are really the only airline flying within Chile and I couldn’t figure out any way to use Delta miles to book those flights, even though they are ostensibly part of SkyTeam. That may be due to my unfamiliarity with the use of SkyMiles, though.

OK – here’s the money saving part which I found through a combo of google search and trial and error. If you are booking flights within Chile on LATAM, you need to book it through the Chilean site rather than the US LATAM site.

You need to be on https://www.latamairlines.com/cl/es

Rather than this https://www.latamairlines.com/us/en

Note that my login for LATAM Pass still works on either site.

BUT – if you search for flights on here and price them in Chilean Pesos, they are going to be a little less than half the price of the same exact flight booked on the US site. Flights to Rapa Nui were $800 each way on the US site (in business) and $750 RT on the Chilean site. I thought for sure that once I entered my US address, my British passport, or US Credit card they would revert to charging me the gringo price, but they did not. And now when I log back into the US site those flights are there and I can choose seats and everything.

You do need to read enough Spanish to be able to work out the forms on the site – but you are going to Chile, so you’d better puede hablar un poco de Español and google translate is a thing. Make sure your credit card doesn’t charge international fees and just pay for it in CLP rather than USD.

Now you can fly business for the price of coach (it’s a 5 1/2 flight each way to Rapa Nui / Easter Island) or use the money you saved for the hotels in Patagonia or wherever else you are visiting.

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United Polaris vs. Delta One review

Last year I flew between Boston and London four times, and I just back from another trip this year on the same route. The flights last year were all on United using their nonstop route and flying in Polaris business class. They discontinued that flight last fall, so for this recent flight I went the same route on Delta. Counter intuitively, since getting lifetime gold status on United, I’ve been able to choose other airlines when the routing or pricing made better sense for me. So, what follows is a review of Polaris vs. Delta One based on identical routing (and almost identical cost).

At Logan Airport: United departs from Terminal B, whereas Delta international flights leave from Terminal E. Parking is a pain in the ass for terminal B as the Defender is too tall for the garage, so you have to park in the central garage which is a long walk away or the economy garage which requires a bus. Terminal E is connected directly to the central garage. Security at Logan is similar between terminals, but they close the precheck lane in terminal B at 7pm. The United lounge is a standard domestic lounge, but the Delta lounge is terminal is new and huge. Overall Delta wins this round.

Onboard: United was flying 767-300ER on the route with the new staggered Polaris seats. I prefer odd numbers that are closer to the window and provide better privacy, although they are a little more awkward to get in and out of, especially when you are nursing a new ceramic hip joint. Delta flew an older A330 last week with the older herringbone layout Delta One seats. Google tells me that they sometimes use the same 767-300ERs on the route, but I did not fly them. I did fly Premium economy on a Delta 767 to Paris last summer and I expected to get the newer delta one suites on this trip.

So – as actually flown, United Polaris wins this hands-down. The older Delta One seats are the same as the ones Air New Zealand and Virgin were using almost 20 years ago and time has moved on. They feel very last generation and the overall onboard experience seems tired and ready for a refresh. Service and food were similar, but it was hard to sleep on the Delta flight as the seats were more cramped and less private. On the way back, I watched some movies and United’s AV setup is much better, as are the between meals snack selections.

United definitely wins in terms of onboard experience.

At Heathrow Airport: I always find Heathrow annoying. United flies into the new(ish) Terminal 2. The arrivals lounge is small but is very new, clean, and welcoming. Connections to car rentals and the tube station are directly below the terminal. Security is rude and shitty, but it is everywhere at Heathrow. There’s a Hilton Garden Inn directly next to the Terminal 2 garage. The United departures lounge is a long walk from checkin and security in the satellite concourse. It’s pretty nice and the food there is decent. I’ve spent way too many hours in this lounge and it does the job.

Delta flies into Terminal 3 at Heathrow – it is objectively worse than terminal 3 in every possible way. It is old, low ceilinged, dirty, tired, and generally unpleasant to be in. The arrivals lounge is a Virgin lounge which is older and not as nice. There are better food choices, though, so the arrivals lounge experience is a tie. Delta’s departure lounge is also the Virgin lounge and is smaller than the United lounge but pretty nice. Ordering food to your table is a nice touch.

Overall, probably a tie with both United and Delta suffering from Heathrow’s overall grunginess and rudeness.

Overall Rating: Personally, I mostly pay the premium for onboard experience and United wins this hands down. The rest of the factors are about even, but the Polaris seats on the 767 are way better than the Delta One seats on the A330. However, if Delta start flying updated A330s or 767s with the latest seats, I would definitely give them another try because the direct flight out of Boston is much better than having to connect through Newark or Dulles. Hopefully United starts flying to Manchester again – which would be even better and I’d consider connecting through EWR or IAD for that.

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Changes

Time to move on from TEAM after 11 years. Definitely some mixed feelings, but overall a sense of optimism and gratitude. Thankful for the opportunity to work with wonderful clients around the world, to travel to some fantastic places, to learn a ton of new skills, and to have been able to work with a team that was almost universally reliable, trustworthy, decent, and supportive.

I’m extremely excited to start something new in the next few weeks – stay tuned for updates

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Calvin Klein Underwear – Pro Stretch

Possibly TMI for some people but I have worn the same style of CK underwear for many years. So, of course, it was discontinued. Trying to find a similar replacement was complicated and frustrating and made more difficult by what I have to assume is a deliberate obscuring of information on the CK web site.

So, in the spirit of mutual aid – assuming that I am not the only person to whom this applies – I present to you the fabric blends of all 19 different offerings in the current Calvin Klein men’s underwear range.

Pro stretch – which is what I have and is no longer offered: 92% cotton 8% lycra

Current range

Icon Micro 92% Polyester 8% Elastane
Cotton Classic 100% Cotton
CK ONE Micro 91% Nylon 9% spandex
Cooling 95% cotton 5% elastane
Micro Stretch 82% polyester 18% elastane
Micro Plus 90% polyester 10% elastane
CK Black Micro 84% nylon 16% elastane
Stretch 87% cotton 13% elastane
Ultra-Soft Modal 90% modal 10% elastane
Chromatic Micro 95% polyester 5% spandex
Customized Stretch Micro 91% polyester 9% elastane
Modern Cotton Stretch 95% cotton 5% elastane
Bold 1981 91% Nylon 9% elastane
Steel Micro 89% nylon 11% elastane
Intense Power Cotton 94% cotton 6% elastane
Statement 1981 Micro 82% polyester 18% elastane
Cotton Stretch 95% cotton 5% elastane
Intense Power Micro 83% polyester 17% elastane
CK Active Mesh 92% nylon 8% elastane

So the closest are Stretch and Intense Power Cotton. Of course Stretch is also out of stock online, so maybe that’s being discontinued too?

Hope someone finds this helpful

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The decades of my life

Update – this was a valuable thing to do. Made me feel proud of what I have achieved over the years

I saw this on Twitter and thought it was helpful and illuminating

In my twenties I:

  • Went to Iceland and Greenland
  • Got a degree in Geography and Geology
  • Went to Svalbard
  • Climbed in the Alps
  • Moved to Canada
  • Went to Baffin Island, Ellesmere Island, Yellowknife, and climbed in the Rockies
  • Got a Masters degree in Geography
  • Had a disastrous relationship
  • Lost my Father
  • Worked as a mailman in the UK
  • Moved to the US
  • Went to Baffin Island, Alaska, and all over the US West
  • Had another couple of disastrous relationships
  • Got a PhD in Geological Sciences
  • Adopted my first dog

In my thirties I:

  • Lived in Arizona, Vermont, Minnesota, New York, New Jersey, and Connecticut
  • Was a professor at three different Universities
  • Bought my first house
  • Changed careers to tech
  • Travelled alone through Eastern Europe on the train
  • Had back surgery
  • Gained 60 pounds
  • Got married
  • Went back to Baffin Island and came back with a dog
  • Adopted another dog
  • Bought my first new car

In my forties I:

  • Went to Australia and New Zealand for the first time (and went back another 20+ times)
  • Went to Japan, Korea, Thailand, Malaysia, Fiji, Tahiti and all over NZ
  • Bought a condo in New Jersey
  • Got divorced
  • Sold the condo at a huge loss
  • Bought an apartment in New York City
  • Had a relationship that wasn’t disastrous but didn’t work out and ended poorly
  • Rebuilt my credit
  • Met a wonderful woman
  • Started running
  • Ran 4 half marathons, finished the NY Marathon, ran innumerable 5 and 10ks (didn’t lose any weight)
  • Started downhill skiing
  • Quit a well-paying job at Oracle and took a $50k pay cut (and saved my sanity)

In my fifties I:

  • Finished traveling to all 50 states, all 10 Canadian provinces and 3 Territories
  • Went back to Australia (many times), New Zealand (many times), Alaska
  • Had someone to travel with and we went to France (2x), UK, Italy, Korea, & Canada (3x). Visited Venice for the first time
  • Sold my apartment in NYC
  • Bought a house on the coast in CT and moved here with my partner
  • Got a wonderful dog
  • Bought my second new car
  • Lost 40 pounds (and counting)

Still working on achievements for my 50s

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Pandemic

I’ve mostly avoided this topic – it’s been hard for me not to travel at all for the past five months. This must be the longest period of staying close to home for me for the past 30 or more years. I’ve been on four flights this year (MAN-EWR, EWR-BOS in early January and BOS-CUN and back in early March).

This is good for the planet and something I probably should have tried to do before, but it’s hard not to travel for work or for pleasure.

One of the silly things that I think about is that I am at 980,000 lifetime miles on United and I really expected to hit a million this year. Which would counter-intuitively lead to me traveling less in some circumstances because I wouldn’t need to ever do a mileage run to keep gold. Delta have managed to lose about half a million of my lifetime miles but there would be no point aiming for million mile status there since that gets you (checks notes) a luggage tag and lifetime silver status – which in turn is worth precisely fuck-all.

For what it’s worth, here are my planned destinations when we can get back to seeing the world:

  • Iqaluit (again)
  • Yellowknife (again) – maybe drive there and go across the new bridge
  • Iceland (again) – with Kim
  • Venice (again) – in winter or fall
  • New Zealand – far North with Kim
  • Tasmania
  • Vancouver Island and maybe Haida Gwai
  • Rural France (again)
  • Amsterdam (again) with Kim
  • Finland

Where else should I dream of going?

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